FAQ- Frequently Asked Questions

Yes, Ceramic Pro Ultimate ION features a true lifetime warranty that is registered in CarFax and honored nationwide by thousands of dealers.

We agree you should not need it, but chances are you do. To make it easier there is no extra charge for it. As we are writing this article a brand new, straight from the dealer Equinox came in with swirls all over it. Most dealers don’t have true detailers. Often their cleaning of your brand-new vehicle can leave swirls. Much of the time your vehicle will have been cleaned dozens of times before you see it. Your vehicle has likely been on a truck and a train and washed several times. It will need chemical decontamination for the sake of adhesion and paint correction for the sake of appearance.

Ceramic Pro Silver and gold is a decade-old technology that is fantastic! In recent months they updated that technology. The new technology is considerably stronger, comparable in price, and requires less time in the shop. Ceramic Pro ION and Ultimate ION take specialized installers and Ceramic Pro has only released it to about 80 ELite Dealers nationwide

For the same reason, you get your oil changed on a regular basis. I mean the car is under warranty right? The annual inspection is a quick, inexpensive (same price as a detail) process to inspect and rejuvenate coatings so they perform their best.

The cost of a ceramic coating varies widely. For better coatings such as ION and Ultimate ION, you should expect to pay $1,300 – $2,500. There is also a 2-year package that is under $800 and a 6-month package that is under $300

Traveling down I-70 between Palisade and Fruita, you are likely traveling at 70-80 MPH. On 6 & 50 maybe you are traveling 55 from Fruita to Grand Junction. If a tire launches a rock at those speeds, ceramic coatings is not going to protect you. We highly suggest at least a partial front paint protection film.

Yes and No. It will make the surface 3x harder and more difficult to scratch. It is certainly not scratch-proof. If you frequently find yourself getting Colorado Pinstripes, driving the trails, or doing anything else that makes you more likely to have scratches, we can customize a film and coating package just for you.

Ceramic Pro Ultimate ION is considerably harder, more abrasion resistant, and has a better bond than its predecessor — Ceramic Pro 9H set the bar for about a decade. Add to this Elite installation and a warranty backed by thousands of dealers nationwide and Ceramic Pro Ultimate ION is clearly the best technology out there.

This answer originally appeared in a Facebook group and was authored by Justin Krauss, one of our owners. It has been slightly modified for publication here.

“I will start by admitting my biases. I am one of about 80 Ceramic Pro dealers nationwide that is considered an Elite Dealer. I own two very highly respected companies and in the garage flooring industry, I’m fairly respected.

Let’s start with the discussion about warranty. First, my Grandfather taught me that a warranty is a document stating all the things a manufacturer won’t cover. It protects the manufacturer.

Second, requiring an inspection does not make it a scam. My truck has a 10-year extended warranty through Chevy. But If I don’t do regular maintenance that warranty is void.

Thirdly, some are scams. When the manufacturer is brand new and claims a long warranty and has zero third-party evidence…..

Lastly in warranty, no manufacturer will survive long term if they do not air on the side of the customer. I’ve sent replacement flooring to people who left kerosene on it because ‘you said it was chemical resistant

Now as to corrosion. Believe it or not, this is where my two businesses have similar science. A properly installed and maintained coating, be it on a floor or on an automobile nullifies certain environmental factors. It creates a sacrificial layer that protects the original.

Corrosion is specific and requires a chemical reaction. That chemical reaction requires two components. Heat and oxygen. Like putting a bag over your head, there is no way to get oxygen into the equation unless you poke holes in it.

A car parked outside every day, like engine oil, the protective layers start to break down. That’s your hole. Or your old oil. Taking it for an inspection, like getting an oil change, reduces the overall wear and tear on the whole system.

You also stated that ceramic coatings are not rocket science. While I agree I would add this: it has been my experience that the easier a coating is to install the shorter the half-life. Ceramic Pro ALMOST proved me wrong with ION and they still may. Better coatings take significant training, understanding, and experience to apply.

Now for those of you who say I left out some of the science and that I’m oversimplifying. Of course, I am. This is a FB forum, not a lab.”

No, we do not charge extra because you have a TESLA.

Dyed, Metallic, Carbon, and Ceramic, which is also known as ceramic IR.

When we talk about the best window tint we are referring to longevity, UVA and UVB blocking, Infra Red heat rejection, scratch resistance, and warranty. Ceramic IR and Ultimate IR Ceramic tints have a clear advantage in this department. True Carbon such as KAVACA Carbon CS and KAVACA Carbon X runs a close second but is not as strong in blocking solar heat gain.

Dyed and metallic or semi-metallic tints should not be used. ever. Be aware that many companies are using tricky marketing terms. Most HP or CS films other than KAVACA are at least partially dyed or metallic films.

Dyed window film will blister, fade, and flat-out fail. It does not offer the heat rejection or UVA and UVB protection that a Carbon or ceramic tint offers.

In addition to having some of the same problems as dyed film, metallic or semi-metallic window film lowers cell phone reception. If you live in Denver this may not be as big of an issue as living in Grand Junction, Fruita, or Montrose. All of those areas with limited reception now will become dead spots.

KAVACA Carbon, Carbon X, IR ceramic, or Ultimate IR. XPEL® Prime XR or XR Plus. Stay away from the HP and CS lines. 3M crystalline or Ceramic IR. Stay away from the 3M® FX-XP, FX-PM, Obsidian, and color stable series.

We are not lawyers. Our understanding is you can go 27% VLT on all windows except the windshield. On the windshield, you can only do a 4″ strip of 70% VLT

Visible Light Transmittance. In not geek speak it’s how dark or light the tint is — and that impacts how much visible light comes through. A blacked-out car will have a very low VLT whereas a car with no tint will have a very high VLT.

Likely they mean you have either spent too much time on Google or working with a salesman who is trying to confuse you. If you want an overview of the terms, Ceramic Pro has a great article. But really you just want to walk into a Ceramic Pro Elite dealer and ask them to show you their heat box.

In short nothing. They are all terms used to describe a clear material that is used to protect your vehicle from rock chips and scratches.

We would suggest you start by getting the details. How much is covered, how thick is the product, what brand and what is the warranty? Also, find out who is doing the work. At a minimum, you want 20-24″ up the hood with a matching line on the fender. The bumper, door cups, and painted portion of mirrors. You want an 8 Mil film and we suggest a film that is ceramic infused.

We love ceramic coatings and we do a lot of ceramic coating work here in Grand Junction. We have people driving from Moab and Montrose for our services. That question is kind of like asking “I have a garage door opener, do I still need deadbolts on my front door?”

A clear bra protects to most vulnerable portions of your vehicle from rock chips and aggressive scratches. Ceramic coatings make your vehicle easier to wash and protect the entire vehicle from minor abrasions, corrosion,

* Thickness – You want an 8 Mil PPF
* Ceramic – Should be ceramic infused so it does not yellow or discolor
* Feel – PPF should feel smooth like a freshly detailed car. It should not feel bumpy or like an orange peel.
* Coverage – Make sure you are getting the right coverage. The minimum clear bra/partial front should include 20-24″ up the hood, a machine line on the fender, full bumper, painted portions of mirrors, and door cups. We do not suggest partial fronts on white vehicles but it is better than nothing.

KAVACA, XPEL, STEK and 3M. We have chosen KAVACA because it meets all the criteria above.

There is no industry standard for a full detail. Most mobile detailers consider a full detail to be a simple wash and interior cleaning. We believe a full detail is much more than just cleaning your car. We suggest reading this post about what (should) be included in a full detail.

The equipment is exactly the same. We use the Rupes Bigfoot Polishing system. For a detail, we will use a white or yellow pad (fine or medium) and Rupes UNO advanced (ultra-fine). This will remove or fill some minor surface imperfections and remaining contaminants. It will also add a 6-month polymer protection to the vehicle

When we do paint correction we use a more aggressive combination of pads and compounds. Most paint correction includes a two-step process where we ‘cut’ the paint as much as necessary and then go back over it again to restore the gloss. This removes most swirls and minor imperfections. Most paint correction focuses on the visible portions. Meaning we will spend more time on the hood and body above the knees than we will the roof or rocker panels — but that all depends on what you want.